fish hook set | fish hooks season 3
Fish Hook
A fish hook or fishhook is a device for catching fish either by impaling them in the mouth or, even more rarely, by snagging the body of the fish. Fish hooks have been employed for centuries by anglers to catch new and saltwater fish. In 2005, the fish fishing hook was chosen by Forbes as one of the top twenty tools in the history of man.|1| Fish hooks are usually attached to some form of line or lure which connects the caught fish to the fisherman. There is an enormous variety of fish hooks in the world of fishing. Sizes, designs, shapes, and materials are all variable depending on the supposed purpose of the fish catch. Fish hooks are manufactured for your range of purposes from standard fishing to extremely limited and specialized applications. Seafood hooks are designed to hold various kinds of artificial, processed, deceased or live baits (bait fishing); to act as the inspiration for artificial representations of fish prey (fly fishing); or to be attached to or perhaps integrated into other devices that represent fish prey (lure fishing).
The fish lift or similar device is made by man for many thousands of years. The world's oldest fish hooks (they were made via sea snails shells) had been discovered in Sakitari Cave in Okinawa Island dated between 22, 380 and twenty-two, 770 years old.|2||3| They are older than the fish hooks from the Jerimalai cave in East Timor dated between 23, 1000 and 16, 000 years of age,|4| and New Ireland in Papua Fresh Guinea dated 20, 500 to 18, 000 years old.|2|
An early written reference to a fish hook is found with reference to the Leviathan in the Book of Job 41: 1; Canst thou draw out leviathan using a hook? Fish hooks are generally crafted from all sorts of materials which includes wood, animal|5| and human bone, horn, shells, stone, bronze, flat iron, and up to present day materials. In many cases, hooks were created from multiple materials to power the strength and positive features of each material. Norwegians simply because late as the 1950s still used juniper solid wood to craft Burbot hooks.|6| Quality steel hooks began to make the look of them in Europe in the 17th century and hook producing became a task for professionals.
Typically referred to parts of a fish hook are: its point, the sharp end that penetrates the fish's mouth area or flesh; the barb, the projection extending back from the point, that secures the fish from unhooking; the attention, the loop in the end on the hook that is connected to the angling line or lure; the bend and shank, that portion of the hook that connects the point and the vision; and the gap, the distance between the shank and the point. In many cases, hooks are described through the use of these various parts of the hook, for example: wide gape, prolonged shank, hollow point or out turned eye.
Modern day hooks are manufactured from either high-carbon steel, steel alloyed with vanadium, or stainless steel, depending on application. Most quality seafood hooks are covered with some form of corrosion-resistant surface layer. Corrosion resistance is required not merely when hooks are used, particularly in saltwater, but while they are placed. Additionally , coatings are used on color and/or provide functional value to the hook. At a minimum, hooks designed for freshwater use are coated with a apparent lacquer, but hooks are usually coated with gold, nickel, Teflon, tin and different shades.
There are a large number of different types of seafood hooks. At the macro level, there are bait hooks, fly hooks and lure hooks. Within these broad categories there are wide varieties of filling device types designed for different applications. Hook types differ fit, materials, points and barbs, and eye type, and ultimately in their intended software. When individual hook types are designed the specific characteristics of every of these hook components will be optimized relative to the hook's intended purpose. For example , a delicate dry fly hook is made of thin wire with a tapered eye because weight is definitely the overriding factor. Whereas Carlisle or Aberdeen light wire bait hooks make use of slim wire to reduce injury to live bait but the eyes are not really tapered because weight is certainly not an issue. Many factors contribute to hook design, including corrosion resistance, weight, strength, connecting efficiency, and whether the lift is being used for specific types of bait, on several types of lures or for different varieties of flies. For each hook type, there are ranges of appropriate sizes. For all types of hooks, sizes range from thirty-two (the smallest) to 20/0 (the largest).
Hook patterns and names are just as varied as fish themselves. In some cases hooks are determined by a traditional or historic name, e. g. Aberdeen, Limerick or O'Shaughnessy. In other cases, hooks are merely recognized by their general purpose or have a part of their name, one or more of their physical characteristics. Some companies just give their hooks model numbers and describe their particular general purpose and characteristics. One example is:
Eagle Claw: 139 is actually a Snelled Baitholder, Offset, Straight down Eye, Two Slices, Medium Wire
Lazer Sharp: L2004EL is a Circle Sea, Vast Gap, Non-Offset, Ringed Vision, Light Wire
Mustad Unit: 92155 is a Beak Baitholder hook
Mustad Model: 91715D is an O'Shaughnessy Jig Hook, 90 degree angle
TMC Model 300: Streamer D/E, 6XL, Heavy wire, Forged, Bronze
TMC Model 200R: Nymph & Dry Take flight Straight eye, 3XL, Standard wire, Semidropped point, Agreed to, Bronze
The shape of the hook shank can vary widely coming from merely straight to all sorts of curves, kinks, bends and offsets. These different shapes play a role in some cases to better hook sexual penetration, fly imitations or bait holding ability. Many hooks intended to hold dead or artificial baits have cut up shanks which create barbs for better baiting holding ability. Jig hooks are designed to have lead weight contoured onto the hook shank. Hook descriptions may also incorporate shank length as common, extra long, 2XL, brief, etc . and wire size such as fine wire, extra heavy, 2X heavy, and so forth
Hooks are designed as either solo hooks-a single eye, shank and point; double hooks-a single eye merged with two shanks and factors; or triple-a single eyesight merged with three shanks and three evenly spread points. Double hooks happen to be formed from a single part of wire and may or may not get their shanks brazed together to get strength. Treble hooks are formed by adding a single eyeless hook to a double catch and brazing all three shanks together. Double hooks are being used on some artificial fishing lures and are a traditional fly lift for Atlantic Salmon flies, but are otherwise fairly uncommon. Treble hooks are used in all sorts of artificial lures as well as for a wide variety of bait applications.
The hook point is probably the essential part00 of the hook. It is the point that must penetrate fish skin and secure the fish. The profile of the hook point and its length influence how well the point permeates. The barb influences how far the point penetrates, how much pressure is required to penetrate and ultimately the holding power of the hook. Hook points will be mechanically (ground) or chemically sharpened. Some hooks happen to be barbless. Historically, many ancient fish hooks were barbless, but today a barbless fishing hook is used to make hook removing and fish release significantly less stressful on the fish. Hook points are also described in accordance with their offset from the lift shank. A kirbed lift point is offset to the left, a straight point has no counter and a reversed level is offset to the right.
Care needs to be taken the moment handling hooks as they can 'hook' the user. If a filling device goes in deep enough under the barb, pulling the hook out will tear the flesh. There are three methods to remove a hook. The first is by cutting the flesh to remove it. The second is to slice the eye of the hook off and then push the remainder of the hook through the flesh as well as the third is to place pressure on the shank towards the drag which pulls the barb into the now oval gap then push the lift out the way it came in.
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